Whirlpool Refrigerator Forced Defrost Mode
Refrigerator Control Diagnostics Menu and Model List
#7 Refrigerator Temperature Adjustment
The refrigerator's fresh food temperature can be adjusted in test "7" with the refrigerator
(+) and(-) buttons, "5" is the suggested setting, "9" is coldest, and "1" is the warmest. The
last setting will be saved when you close the refrigerator door.
#8 Freezer Temperature Adjustment
In the same way the refrigerator's freezer temperature can be adjusted in test "8" with
the refrigerator (+) and(-) buttons, "5" is the suggested setting, "9" is coldest, and "1" is the
warmest. The last setting will be saved when you close the refrigerator door.
Forced Defrost Mode
The forced defrost mode is started out of the diagnostics mode. If you are in
diagnostics you can exit by closing the refrigerator door. This is a nice one because you
can do a forced defrost cycle as long as the refrigerator's defrost thermostat, heater,
and control are okay.
It is fairly common to have a large amount of frost build up and
block airflow into the fresh food area if the freezer door did not get closed all the way for
a few hours. The signs of this happening are clear, large amounts of frost or "snow" all
over the freezer compartment or frost build up near the front of the freezer compartment
near the door gasket.
Doing a "long" forced defrost will probably get things back to normal.
To run a forced defrost cycle open the refrigerator door or doors if your refrigerator is a
french door model. Then hold down the door switch or switches, the display should go
blank. Next press the refrigerator temperature (-) button 3 times in 10 seconds and
release the door switches. The display should show "F" and "D" (Forced Defrost) press
the refrigerator (-) button one more time to confirm that this is what you want to do. "S" for
"short" should then be displayed in the refrigerator window. You can switch between
long and short cycles with the refrigerator (+) button. To test the circuit the short option
should be fine. However, if you are trying to get rid of a frost build up I would suggest
the long cycle.
When you have made your selection press the refrigerator (-) button to
start the defrost cycle. The display will go back to it's original settings and you can close
the door. After a few moments if everything is working properly you should hear the
sweet hissing sound of water dripping onto the red hot heater. If you don't hear anything
in the freezer after a few minutes... "Huston we have a problem"
Programming Mode
Each W10503278 control board has a software program that changes slightly from
refrigerator to refrigerator. The correct program code is printed at the bottom of your
refrigerator's model/serial number sticker in the refrigerator compartment. you can
check that you have the correct program, or set the program for your new control with
this function. Open the doors and press your door switch or switches so that the lights
and display go out. Next press the freezer temperature (-) button 3 times in 10 seconds
and release the light switch. you should see "P" and "E" (Program Mode... can't do an
"M" I suppose) in the display. Press the freezer (-) button one more time to confirm that
this is what you want. The display will show the current program. If the code is correct
just close the door. If not you can set the code with the refrigerator and freezer (+)
buttons. Once the correct code has been set press the freezer (-) button to lock it in and
close the door. NOTE: the refrigerator will not run with a code "00".
What Now?
Something seems to be wrong with your refrigerator... So what now? Good news! All the
parts managed with control board W10503278 are AC120 Volts. So it comes down to one
question is the part that failed the test bad or is it your refrigerator's control board? To
answer that question you will need to check the refrigerator part in question directly.
NOTE: If you haven't heard already, electricity is dangerous and extreme caution needs
to be used! The safest and easiest way is with a non contact voltage meter.
Start the test again for the part you want to test and then put your voltage sensor near
the wires that are attached to the suspected refrigerator part. If it lights up and beeps
then the control is sending power like it should (When you are forcing it...) If no lights
and beeps then your refrigerator control is bad. (Check your non contact meter at a wall
socket to make sure it's working.) If your refrigerator passes every test perfectly but it's
not doing things automatically like it should, it is fairly safe to assume that the control
needs to be replaced.
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