Whirlpool Refrigerator Repair Control Board, Compressor, Fan, and Sensor Diagnostics
Refrigerator Control Diagnostics Menu and Model List
Test#2 Refrigerator Compressor & Condenser Fan Diagnostics
As a general rule any time the refrigerator compressor is running so should the
condenser fan motor. The condenser fan helps to move the heat that is being pulled
from the freezer out into the room so that more heat can be removed from the food you
are hoping to keep cold.
(Refrigerator Physics)
When test 2 is selected you can turn the compressor / condenser fan circuit on and off
with the refrigerator (+) button.
an "O" is displayed in the refrigerator temperature window
for "on" and an "F" for "off"
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If the compressor has been
turned on and off you need to wait at least 10 minutes to turn it back on again or you
may damage the compressor! If the compressor does not turn on with this diagnostic
test take a look at this for more troubleshooting help.
(Compressor Troubleshooting)
Test#3 Freezer Evaporator Fan Diagnostics
The freezer evaporator fan has the very important job of moving the air inside the
refrigerator and freezer. Without it the refrigerator won't cool at all and the freezer will
only freeze small areas. press the freezer temperature buttons until "3" is displayed then
press the refrigerator (+) button. An "O" for "on" should be displayed and the refrigerator's
evaporator fan should come on. Press the refrigerator (+) button again and an "F" for "off"
is in the refrigerator display and you guessed it the fan should be turned off.
Test#4 Refrigerator Sensor Diagnostics
Your refrigerator uses sensors called a thermistor to sense the temperature inside the
refrigerator's fresh food and freezer areas. The control then uses this information to
know if the compressor should be running to make things colder. It also uses this info
decide if more or less cold air should be allowed into the fresh food area through the
damper door. The sensor test gives a "P" pass, "O" open, or "S" short result. "O" or "S"
means the sensor is bad or a "P.O.S." and needs to be replaced, a "P" is what you want.
This still requires a little bit of faith in the control that it is working well enough to give
you the correct information...If you don't trust the control and want to test the sensor
directly it should have the following resistance readings at the given temperature...
(How to use a Multimeter)
- @77ºF 10,000Ω +or- 1.8%
- @36ºF 29,500Ω +or- 1.0%
- @0ºF 86,300Ω +or- 1.8%
Test#5 Freezer Sensor Diagnostics
Your freezer also uses a thermistor to sense the temperature inside the refrigerator's
freezer area. The control then uses this information to know if the compressor should be
running to make things colder. The freezer sensor test gives a "P" pass, "O" open, or "S"
short result. "O" or "S" means the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced, a "P" is what
you want. This still requires a control that it is working well enough to give you the
correct information...
If you don't trust the control and want to test the sensor directly it should have the
following resistance readings at the given temperature...
(How to use a Multimeter)
- @77ºF 10,000Ω +or- 1.8%
- @36ºF 29,500Ω +or- 1.0%
- @0ºF 86,300Ω +or- 1.8%
Test#6 Refrigerator Damper Door Diagnostics
The refrigerator uses a part called the damper to regulate how much cold air from the
freezer is allowed to enter the refrigerator's fresh food compartment. The control uses
the refrigerator's fresh food sensor to decide if more or less cold air should be allowed
into the fresh food area through the damper door. It also may decide to close the
damper if it feels like the freezer is not cold enough. Generally your freezer section is
highest priority. So the freezer temperature or sensor can also cause the damper to
remain closed and let you refrigerator section warm up. With "6" in your freezer display
press the refrigerator (+) button to force open "O" and close "C" the damper. NOTE: you
will need to wait about 1 minute for the damper to move from the open and closed
positions. You need to actually see that the damper is moving from fully open to fully
closed. Just hearing the motor does not account for the possibility that the damper
motor is working but the door is broken.
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